The Andes are beautiful; I will let the photos do the rest of the talking, in case you have any doubt...
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Trekking in Torres del Paine National Park
Trekking in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine was...incredible. Knowing how the weather in Patagonia can change hourly, I set out thinking, "Well...if I have at least 2 days of good weather and little rain or wind...I´ll be pretty happy." I happened to be very lucky, and thoroughly (can I say that again? thoroughly) enjoyed a week of great weather and walking by myself.
My original plan was to trek the "circuito grande" with a guy from Canada; however, plans changed at the last minute and I started and ended the circuit alone. Along the way I enjoyed talking with some cyclists from England (taking a break from cycling, trekking instead), Argentine and French friends I met in Ushuaia, a handful of people from Spain, and another cyclist from the U.S. But, during the day, I walked alone, stopping frequently to take in the grandeur of the Andes, and listen to the wind whip through the grass and the trees. I thought a lot about past trips (High Road in Wheaton, Spain with Katie, Central America with Ben J., India and Nepal), when certain smells and sights brought back great trip memories from the past. My mind also wandered to a lot of friends and family, wondering what everyone was doing, and also thoughts about the future, getting back to the US in a few months, and pending plans. I valued the time and space to think, and how physical movement is often so helpful for freeing the mind to thinking through life as well.
Thursday, March 4, 2010
OK in Chile After Earthquake
I've received numerous emails asking about the earthquake. Thanks for your thoughts/concerns! I want to let you know that I am OK, and was actually on my first day of a six day trekking circuit when the earthquake happened, therefore was unable to make contact with anyone until now. I am currently in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, near the city Puerto Natales, which is quite a bit south of Concepcion, the epicenter.
I just got off the trail, and should now have internet access on a regular basis. I will be volunteering in the National Park for the next 2-4 weeks. Here is a photo of Glaciar Grey, 17km long, from the trekking circuit. Thanks again for your thoughts/prayers. I'll update more soon as I'm able.
Love, Andria
Monday, February 22, 2010
Argentina Pictures Are Up
Argentina blog pictures are up! Traveling from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia (the southernmost city of the world) by land. Includes: hiking around Bariloche, El Bolsón, and El Chaltén; visiting Glacier Perito Moreno (near Calafate), and hitchhiking with Sophie (a girl met on a long-distance bus) about 1500km down to Ushuaia and then into Puerto Natales, Chile. In addition to the incredible trekking and mountains vistas, hitchhiking was a great way to travel. We talked with a lot more local people, drank coffee and listened to cumbia music really loud during a 6-hour ride with a truck driver, and ended up staying in a few random people´s housing, grateful for unseen hospitality offered by the Argentine people.
http://picasaweb.google.com/andriadhautamaki/FromGoodAirToTheLandOfFireBuenosAiresToTierraDelFuego#
http://picasaweb.google.com/andriadhautamaki/FromGoodAirToTheLandOfFireBuenosAiresToTierraDelFuego#
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
Patagonia Instalation #2: Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Cerro Torre, the Fitz Roy, and Glacier Perito Moreno
The summer sun (no, that doesn´t mean it´s warm!) is shining today in El Calafate, Argentina. It´s great to feel its warm rays, and to forget that sun's cousins, rain and wind, are on temporary leave. Since Bariloche, I´ve made my way south over the past week. I spent a few days in El Bolsón (think Seattle or Boulder, yuppie hippies and farmers markets), El Chaltén (the "Trekking capital of Patagonia"), and El Calafate (a tourist town, gateway to Glaciar Perito Moreno). The bus ride from Bariloche to El Calafate is more than 35 hours in duration, along the infamous Route 40, the gravel "highway" along the eastern side of the Andes. While Route 40 is slowly becoming more paved, it is a road literally through nowhere, unless you count the scrubby bushes, dirt, and incredibly expansive views as somewhere. It´s been good to break the journey up with a few stops, and to experience more of Patagonia along the way.
El Bolsón
I spent a few days in El Bolsón, initially huddled in my tent or coffee shops, escaping the wind and rain. However, the sun eventually did shine, and I got in two day hikes, along blue blue rivers and through some nice forests. My first day I hiked with two Argentine ladies, the second day with three climbers from the U.S. who I´d met near Refugio Frey. They were waiting for the weather to clear (this can be a 2-3 week project in Patagonia) so they could return to Refugio Frey and get in some trad climbing.
El Chaltén
On the bus ride from El Bolsón to El Chaltén, I met up with a girl from France (Sophi) and a guy from Isreal (Oren). We ended up heading into the northern part of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares together, and had a great time making Israeli coffee, laughing over English-Spanish-Hebrew-French translation errors, and also delighting in the fact that YES, we actually saw Cerro Torre and the Fitz Roy! Before we arrived, people had waited four days or more for views of these incredible rock mountains. On our second day in the park, the skies cleared, and we stared in aw at the ragged beauty of these two formations. After three days/three nights in the backcountry, we all headed out, continuing the trek south.
El Calafate
From El Chaltén to El Calafate Sophi and I hitched a ride with a local singer and her sound guy. The two hours flew by, with great views out the back of our hitched vehicle, and sharing mate (the local tea) and conversation with two Argentineans. Since arrive in El Calafate, Sophi and I rented a car with three other people (it was cheaper than the bus) and visited the Glaciar Perito Moreno (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perito_Moreno_Glacier). The glaciar is quite outstanding to see, as small and large chuncks of ice are constantly falling into the lake. The glaciar itself juts out 74 meters above the water; it's very beautiful, and one of the few glaciars in the world that is currently growing, not reatreating.
Our second day in El Calafate was spent as an "administrative day," catching up on emails and sleep. I also had a job (through Skype) interview with a company that leads international trips for students - Putney (http://www.goputney.com/), based out of Vermont. The interview went great, I was offered a job, and will spend the month of July co-leading a group of students in either Costa Rica, El Salvador, or Argentina. I´m excited to try education from a more experiential, out-of-the-classroom perspective, and also guide high school students through the experience of traveling and communicating in a different country. This means that I actually have plans (yikes!) and will be making my way back to Colorado mid-June after flying back up to the U.S. for leader orientation in Vermont.
Continuing South...
In just an hour or so, Sophi and I will pack up, again heading south. However, this time the hope is to arrive at Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego "por dedo" - a.k.a hitchhiking. It´s pretty common and safe to hitchhike in Patagonia, and also a lot more interesting, with more contact time with local people. Hopefully I will be able to post again in a few days, (2-4?) from the southernmost part of the Americas! Wish us luck!
Friday, February 5, 2010
Patagonia Instalation #1: Let There Be Snow
I´m currently back in Bariloche, after two nights in the mountains. I was trying to do a traverse, over a few passes, but the weather turned bad the first night I was out. It was actually a great introduction to the unbelievable ability of the weather to change around here at a pace unknown to me (and I thought the weather changed fast in Colorado! Patagonia takes it to a whole new level). I hiked up about 12km, and set camp around a lake, near a refugio where there were other people, and a bunch of climbers, hanging out. The afternoon was all sunshine, but towards evening, the wind and rain picked up. When I went to bed, it was raining. When i woke up..hahaha...i thought "Oh, it´s quiet out. So nice. The rain must have stopped." But then i heard soft touches on the roof of the tent...tk tk tk tk...and thought, uh oh, that´s not rain! Unzipping the tent, and getting powdered with snow in the process, I also found about 4 inches of whiteness outside... Really, it was beautiful, and I love camping in the snow. But not with summer-like clothes! I didn´t ha
The hostel I´m at is pretty sweet - it´s filled wit
A Few Days in Buenos Aires
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im in buenos aires, with a dog sleeping under my feet, and a cute kitty named felix running around. today i toured the city by bicycle with cecilia - the woman's house i'm staying at (note: i connected up with cecilia and alejandro through SERVAS (servas.org) similar to Hospitality Club (hospitalityclub.org). it was really generous of her to take time to show me
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staying with cecilia and alejandro was great...i played with their animals, went to an asado (think a barbecue of cow that lasts 3-4hours plus wine/beer), and simply enjoyed meeting regular people. now...in a hostel in the city. will probably stay here one more night, might move if i can find something cheaper...
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it's weird speaking spanish again. ha. it´s not like friends in india who are so used to moving back and forth multiple languages...it's taking me a bit to be able to do the same. it's like i operate in either english or spanish, but not both simultaneously. i'll find myself choking on my own thoughts as i walk down the street, because i'm thinking in spanish and can't remember a word. :) ha. it's kinda funny. it'll get all sorted out after being here awhile.
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buenos aires is different than all of the other latin american capitals i've been in (guatemala city, san salvador, managua, san jose, quito). it's a lot calmer - traffic obeys the laws - and it's also a lot more european. both culturally, in the food (pizza and pasta and bread. yikes!!! where's the rice??), and also that most people in the city are really light skinned. like, people can't tell just by looking at my that i'm not argentinean. it's a very different experience for me...than even walking around quito, for example, or another part of latin america. i almost feel more like i'm back in spain, for all those reasons, than in south america.
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i've been debating since i arrived if i should go to uraguay or not...it's really just right around the corner...and i'd be great to see another country...but the only thing to do really is go to the beaches and beach hop for a week or so (but i'm not really in the mood for beaches). otherwise, the transportation costs to get there for a quick trip just aren't worth it. i decided today that the mountains are calling me. i was looking at a book today with different trails/routes...and oh yes...it made my heart sing just thinking about possibilities. so, i'm headed to bariloche on the 29th, a 22hr. bus ride, arriving sometime on the 30th. from there...i'll spend some time in the lake district around bariloche, and eventually start making my way south, hopefully hopping on and off some day hikes to 3-5 day circuits...should be great. i got a confirmation from parque nacional torres del paine (it's pretty well known, i'm sure you've seen pictures of it) and will spend the first few weeks of march volunteering there.
Whirlwind Tour of the USA
It was a whirlwind after leaving India and getting prepared to go to South America. After nearly 22 hrs on a plane (Bangalore --> Delhi 2.5hrs, Delhi --> Chicago 16 hrs, Chicago --> Naples, FL 2.5 hrs) and many more hours in transit, I was able to spend 5 days with my grandparents and mom in Florida. It was great to be back in the US for a few days, mostly to catch up with people, most notably, be on almost the same time zone as everyone! However, those 5 days few by, in the attempt to juggle friends, family, and graduate school applications for the University of New Mexico in Albuquerque in the fall. I´m hoping to start a dual degree in Latin American Studies and Community and Regional Planning (think: sustainable communities), but a lot will depend on if I can get funding or not. In the meantime, I have 4 or 5 months to disfrutar (enjoy) in South America.
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